Invisible Fences refers to a specific brand of electric dog fence.  A radio fence is a specific type of buried fencing that utilizes a radio transmitter and receiver to encourage your dog to remain within the property.  Using an electric fence will prevent your animal from running out to the street or getting away and ensure that they remain within the boundaries you set.

An Invisible fence is set up by representatives of the parent company.  They will come to your home and discuss the parameters you intend to set for your animal.  Using these boundaries they will implant a transmitter wire below ground, about six inches deep.  The wire is connected to a power source and it begins sending a radio signal.  The radio signal is specific to your receiver unit.  The receiver is set upon a collar that your dog wears.  The collar contains a device that will deliver a small electric shock to your animal if it passes the boundaries of the invisible fence.

Once the wire is set into the ground and then activated, the technician will set up a series of flags that mimic the perimeter of the wire.  With the system activated the company will send out a trainer to help you train your dog.  You will be taught how to bring the animal within an appropriate distance and let them sense a small shock.  The training sessions must be short, so as not to overtax your dog.  Expect that it will take your dogs several weeks to associate the flags on the ground with the shock and further learn that they should not pass the line of flags.  Eventually you should be able to remove the flags as well.

The key advantage to installing the Invisible fence is that once it is installed there will be no sign of fencing.  You can be confident in the knowledge that your dog is safe on your property but still there is nothing to see of the fencing.  Other than the collar that your dog wears there is no sign that fencing is present at all. 

The collar your dog wears is specifically designed to work with the implanted wire.  As your dog approaches the wire they receive a small shock.  If they get closer the shock increases in intensity.  The goal is to discourage your animal from going beyond the designated line you have set.  Some collars increase the level of shock with each warning and set themselves to start again at just one level below the final shock of the previous.  The goal is to more quickly discourage the dog from approaching the fence.

While an invisible fence will not keep other animals from entering your yard it will keep your dog within your preset parameters.  It also is no guarantee of keeping other intruders, such as children from entering your yard.  None the less, you will find that an invisible fence will help protect your best friend without affecting the appearance of your home. If all else fails you can always use a spacious dog kennel.

Most breeders charge an average of $800 for one of their purebred pups that is if you agree to spay or neuter the puppy. If you plan to show or breed the dog the price increases. Show dogs sell on average for $1,500. If you are particularly attached to a certain breed and can not imagine yourself with any other then this might not seem like a large sum of money. While you might not mind parting with the cash, there are certain things you should expect for your fee:

1. A three generation pedigree tree should be provided at minimum. This means that your breeder should know who your puppy’s parents, grandparents and great-grandparents are on both the side of the bitch and the sire. Most reputable breeders are in business for long periods of time and can typically trace the bloodline back much further. 

2. Titled Champions should be in the bloodline. Somewhere in the puppy’s pedigree there should be a sporting, working, or conformation title winner. The puppy would preferably be a direct descendent, within the first two generations, of the title winner. 

3. The hips and elbows of both parents should be certified as “Good” or “Excellent” by the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals on both parents. Joint problems including osteoarthritis and hip dysplasia are often hereditary and dogs with these problems should not be bred because it will almost certainly pass along to the offspring. These conditions cause extreme pain in the dog himself and are expensive to treat as well.

4. Eyes should be certified free of genetic abnormalities. Eye disorders and diseases such as glaucoma, inverted eyelids and progressive retinal atrophy are hereditary and dogs with these conditions should never be bred. While some eye disorders are mere inconveniences, others can be serious and require continued treatment.

5. You should have a guarantee that your dog is free from inheritable diseases and conditions. There should be language in the agreement that allows for the replacement of the dog or refund of the fee in the event that your dog is diagnosed with an inherited disease.  

6. A good breeder should also include language in an agreement regarding care of the dog if you should no longer be able to. If there is ever any reason that you are unable to keep or care for the dog then the breeder should always offer to take the dog back. This protects you and also makes sure that the breeder gets “their” dog back.

7. Any help or advisement that you need to help you become a better dog owner. Every breed has its own characteristics and special needs and your breeder should act as a guide and confidant. 

8. Your breeder should also provide proper care and grooming information. They should be able to tell you what disorders to look out for, how many hours of playtime they need and what their specific grooming requirements are. They are an expert on the breed and should be able to tell you exactly what you need to do to ensure proper care, training and socialization.

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If dogs are too much responsibility and cats just aren’t your thing, but your children are still clamoring for a pet perhaps a caged pet might be a good choice for your family. Caged pets are comparatively cheaper to care for, easier to make arrangements for when travelling and take up very little space in the house yet they can be handled and played with by children. Having a caged pet might also be just the right amount of pet-care responsibility for your children. The most popular caged pets are hamsters and gerbils and while they seem similar, they are several differences.

Hamsters come in three varieties, the most popular of which is the Syrian hamster. Despite the fact that they are the most popular variety kept as pets, they should be caged individually as they will fight if kept together. They are quite tame and friendly when it comes to people though. They are typically 6-7 inches long and live around 2-3 years. Second in popularity are Dwarf hamsters that are friendlier with each other in captivity; however, they can be a bit skittish and hard to handle by people. Dwarf hamsters are 3-4 inches long and live around two years. The third type of hamster is the Chinese hamster which is similar in size and life span to the dwarf hamster. Chinese hamsters are temperamental with each other and with humans, but can get along with both if handled from a young age.

Hamsters come in a variety of colors and coat types including short hair, long hair, striped and angora. They are white, albino, black, tan and many other varieties. Hamsters weigh in at between 3-5 ounces and are slightly stockier than their gerbil cousins; however, they are easy to differentiate from other rodents because they have a very short stubby tail. Despite their similarities hamsters of different species should never be caged together.

Hamsters require a diet comprised of sunflower seeds, wheat, nuts, beans, barley, maize, pea flakes and millet seed. Avoid feeding hamsters other caged animal food mixes because the pieces can be too large for the hamster to properly digest. Be careful not too overfeed as hamsters have a tendency to hoard and over-eat their food. Common health ailments of hamsters include colds, wet tail, diarrhea, constipation, mange, fleas and lice. Hamsters are also prone to stress so providing a daily routine for you hamster is important.

While there are over 80 species of gerbils the most popular and common gerbil is the Mongolian gerbil. Mongolians are typically around 6-12 inches long with their tails comprising half of their body length. The average gerbil weighs approximately 2.5 ounces making them half the weight of the average hamster. Unlike hamsters, gerbils are social animals and prefer to live in groups of other gerbils with male and female combinations being the most successful pairing in captivity. While they typically do well when handled they can become startled which occasionally results in a surprised squealing sound.

Gerbils enjoy a diet comprised of sunflower seeds, pumpkin seeds and peanuts. The diet can be supplemented with fruit peels, parsnip cores, apples and carrots. Gerbils will eat just about anything so be careful to balance the food given as too many sunflower seeds can cause illness. Be careful when feeding fruits with high water content like watermelon or celery as it can increase they occurrence of the bacterial infection known as wet tail, which is also common among hamsters. Hamsters typically groom themselves; however, a cool bowl of sand will help them groom themselves as they are originally desert burrowing creatures.

Housing requirements for the two animals are similar and should have several different components. Cages can be wire, glass or plastic with adequate ventilation. The cage environment should have several inches of bedding to provide a place to borrow and serve as a means to soak up urine. Avoid cedar shavings, corn cob bedding or other scented materials in favor for plain pine wood shavings. The habitat should also have an area for the furry guy to hide out in times of stress along with an appropriate outlet for exercise such as a wheel or a series of tunnels. Fresh water and food should be provided daily and the cage should be cleaned weekly to avoid foul odor or the spread of infection. When properly cared for and handled regularly both hamsters and gerbils can make affectionate and low-maintenance pets for people of all ages.

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If you have noticed that your dog seems to be eating a lot, but losing weight or urinating more frequently and drinking water obsessively then he might have diabetes. Diabetes mellitus, or sugar diabetes, is actually quite common in dogs. This type of diabetes results in sugar in the urine because the dog is not metabolizing sugar properly. When a dog has diabetes his pancreas does not produce the proper amount of insulin. Without the presence of adequate insulin, sugar or glucose in the bloodstream can not get into cells, where it is needed for energy. If glucose is not dispersed into the cells of the body it throws blood glucose levels out of whack. While the blood glucose levels are high, the cells are completely without and this causes the brain to receive the message that the body is starving so food intake increases.


Diabetes also taxes the kidneys with overwhelming levels of blood glucose to process. The kidneys are the body’s filtration system and will react to the excess glucose in the body by attempting to dilute it while producing more urine. This can lead to a normally potty trained dog having accidents in the house. The cycle continues as the production of excessive urine causes dehydration and pets begin to drink excessively to re-hydrate themselves. As diabetes progresses your dog will likely begin to form cataracts or lose his sight. If the disease is left untreated toxins called ketones can build up in the blood causing your dog to slip into a diabetic coma.


If your dog begins to show these signs or significantly changes his eating or drinking habits then take him to the Veterinarian to get checked out. While this disease can be fatal, it is also easy to manage with the proper medication. Your Vet can tell you if your dog has diabetes by performing a simple blood test and a urinalysis. If your dog is diagnosed your Vet will place you on a treatment program including a special diet, once or twice daily insulin injections and a check-up schedule.


Depending on your dog’s size and the progression of the disease he will need daily intramuscular insulin injections. These injections can be done at home and can be administered in any muscular area on your dog. Your Vet will show you how to do this, but make sure you are comfortable with completing the injections yourself before taking your dog home. Your Vet will probably recommend a special diet with very specific portions for you to administer at home. It is very important to give injections and food at a specific time each day. Your dog will need your diligence to make sure his blood levels remain steady and this means that he needs his shots and food regularly. Try picking a time you can stick with every day and make sure the times are at least 8 hours apart. Your Vet will likely want you to feed and inject twice daily to ensure maximum success, but if this is just not a possibility for you bring it to your Vet’s attention.


Fine tuning the proper amount of food and insulin can be tricky so you will likely need to go back to the Veterinarian several times in a 3 month period for blood sugar check-ups. Your Veterinarian may increase or decrease the amount of food or insulin until the levels get where they need to be. Going forward you will likely be fine with 6 month check-ups for your diabetic dog. Diabetic dogs are more susceptible to infections than their healthy canine peers; however, with daily injections and consistent weight management they can lead normal, happy and healthy lives for years with this condition.

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Many undesirable behaviors can be eliminated by providing your dog with a safe and comfortable crate and training him to use it regularly. Crates are indoor kennels that provide containment for your dog while giving him the security of having his own den as he would in the wild. Containing your dog in a crate keeps your dog from chewing on inappropriate items, getting into chemicals or other dangerous items and has the added benefit of keeping him from messing on the floor. While it is best to start crate training when your dog is a puppy any dog can be successfully crate trained. The key to successful crate training is gradual introduction to the crate and a continued positive relationship with his crate.

Your dog’s first experience with the crate should always be a voluntary and positive experience. You might be thinking to yourself that your dog would never voluntarily go into a crate. In some instances you would be correct, but there are other ways to get your dog to explore his crate without you forcing him inside. Simply bring the crate home and set it up in your living room. Secure the door in an open position and place yummy treats inside it. Then sit back on the couch, grab the remote and relax. Your dog will naturally go inside and explore. By placing the crate in the living room and leaving it you are allowing your dog to get used to the crate while hanging out with you at the same time. This keeps your dog from feeling punished by isolating him in the back room away from his pack (you).

After your dog has had the opportunity to explore and get used to his crate on his terms you may begin confining him for brief periods of time. During this stage it is best to keep the crate in a common area of the house and remain in the room with your dog during initial confinement. Try placing soft bedding in the crate along with a few treats or toys. Wait for your dog to enter on his own accord and get settled before you come and close the door. If your dog does not lie down then wait until he does. Next you should close the door for a brief period of time. Try to watch a movie or read a book and sit with your dog.

At this point your dog should be getting used to being confined to his crate and you can begin leaving him alone inside for brief periods of time. Try telling him to go to his crate by pointing to it and using a one word command such as “crate”, “kennel” or “inside”. If your dog does not go inside on his own, be patient and place treats inside until he does. After he does you should start getting him used to being alone in his crate by running short errands and then returning home and releasing your dog from his crate. Avoid making emotional displays upon leaving and returning. If you are calm your dog will be calm and if you are excited your dog will become excited. If your dog does well with being confined for short periods of time then you might just be ready to crate while you do to work.

The first time you leave your dog in his crate you should leave him with a special treat. Try spreading peanut butter inside a rubber toy like a kong. Your dog will be so excited trying to lick the peanut butter out of the kong that he won’t even notice that you left the house. If possible during the first few days sneak away on your lunch break and take your dog out for a potty break and short play session. Adult dogs will be able to hold it during a regular work day; however, puppies are not able to. Be mindful of that when forming your expectations concerning potty accidents in the crate. At this point you are safe to move your dog’s crate out of your living room if you wish. Try to keep the crate in a spare bedroom, but do not move it into the basement or garage. Dogs want to be around their people and completely isolating their crates can feel like a punishment to your dog. Keep all of these tips in mind and your dog will be crate trained in no time.

This article was submitted by the authors at pet-super-store a site featuring shock collars, pet doors, and dog kennels.